Day 24 - Baltic Jewels & the Midnight Sun: Bornholm (Rønne), Denmark

 Bornholm (Rønne), Denmark – Monday, July 18

The island of Bornholm was another substitute for places we were supposed to visit until Putin decided to invade Ukraine.  Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, to the east of the rest of Denmark, south of Sweden, northeast of Germany and north of Poland.  Among Bornholm's chief industrial activities are dairy farming and arts and crafts industries such as glass production and pottery using locally worked clay. Tourism is also important during the summer months. The island is home to four of Denmark's seven round churches.

The island is known as solskinsøen (Sunshine Island) because of its weather and klippeøen (Rock Island) because of its geology, which consists of granite, except along the southern coast. The heat from the summer is stored in the rock formations and the weather is quite warm until October. As a result of the climate, a local variety of the common fig, known as Bornholm's Diamond, can grow locally on the island. The island's topography consists of dramatic rock formations in the north (unlike the rest of Denmark, which is mostly gentle rolling hills) sloping down towards pine and deciduous forests (greatly affected by storms in the 1950s), farmland in the middle and sandy beaches in the south.

Strategically located in the Baltic Sea, Bornholm has been fought over for centuries. It has usually been ruled by Denmark, but also by Sweden and Lübeck, Germany. The ruin of Hammershus, at the northwestern tip of the island, is the largest medieval fortress in northern Europe, testament to the importance of its location. This island and Ertholmene is what remains in Denmark of Skåneland east of Øresund, having been surrendered to Sweden in 1658 but with Bornholm later regained by Denmark in 1660 after a local revolt.

Rønne is the largest town on the island. Owing to its natural harbor and its strategic position in the Baltic Sea, Rønne has an interesting history coming under German and Swedish influence during its development as a herring fishing port. Today, with its cobbled streets, half-timbered houses and interesting museums, it attracts visitors mainly from Denmark, Germany, Sweden and Poland.

Some 30 years ago when Aimee visited the Kalscheuer family in Belgium, they went for a week's holiday to Bornholm.  Aimee remembers it fondly.

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We chose to do the included excursion, called "Scenic Bornholm," which Viking describes as:  "Discover the natural beauty and charming villages of the idyllic island of Bornholm. This picturesque Danish island is nicknamed solskinsøen (Sunshine Island) and klippeøen (Rock Island) for its weather and geology, respectively. Drive to Nylars, where you will stop to view the Nylars Church. A small circular building that dates back to the 12th century, it was used as a fortress as well as a place of worship. After time for photographs, continue on to Gudhjem, a quaint fishing village which clings to the side of a rocky bay and where smoked herring was first prepared. Learn about the community’s fishing tradition as you take a stroll along the harbor and into the town center, where you can admire the slanting little half-timbered houses. Travel through picturesque Almindingen, one of the largest forests in Denmark, as you return to your ship."

We boarded our bus, Quiet Voxes and cameras in hand, at 8:50 a.m. for this two hour tour that, while interesting and picturesque, did not resemble the description at all.  We did not stop in any towns, and our one stop was to Hammershus Fortress, Scandinavia's largest medieval fortification.  

Hammershus is situated in the Baltic Sea 243 feet above sea level. The fortification, erected in the 13th century, consists of the base castle residence and features a grand tower called the "mantel" tower. Hammershus Fortress features a perimeter wall measuring 2,460 feet.  

During a number of successive struggles between the kings of Denmark versus the Archbishopric, the fortress served as a refuge for the Archbishops including Bishop Jens Grand. It was conquered by the king's army in 1259, 1265, 1319, and 1325. In 1521, it was taken by King Christian II, who used it to imprison Bishop Jens Andersen Beldenak of Funen. The fortress was conquered by forces of Lübeck, a powerhouse of the Hanseatic League the same year. 

In 1658, Hammershus was occupied by Swedish forces, but a rebellion on the island terminated the Swedish rule. The rebels, led by Jens Pedersen Kofoed, shot the Swedish commandant Johan Printzenskiöld, and the Danish peasants traveled to Copenhagen to return the island to the king of Denmark. In 1743 Hammershus was abandoned as a stronghold. The remains were preserved in 1822. 

Unlike others on our tour, I am not complaining since Jeff and I both loved the Fortress and found the scenery stunning in its simplicity and wide expanses of what clearly were family-owned small farms.  Our guide, Anje (En-yah) was enthusiastic and informative, exclaiming at one point, "I just love this beautiful island!"

Østerlars Kirke 

Østerlars Kirke is a historic building located just north of the village of Østerlars, a little more than 3 miles south of Gudhjem on the island of Bornholm, Denmark. It is the largest and, possibly, the oldest of the island's four round churches built around 1160.  The church consists of an apse, an oval chancel, a large round nave and has three stories. There is evidence the church was once fortified, the top story serving as an open shooting gallery. The church is dedicated to St Lawrence.  The building is one of Denmark's oldest Romanesque churches. On the basis of coins dated 1157 found in the floor, the date of construction was probably around 1160. The fieldstone wall stands on foundations of Bornholm limestone. 

Originally there were small Romanesque windows but these were enlarged after the Reformation. During the 16th century, a number of buttresses were added to support the outer wall. The conical roof was replaced in the 17th century. The porch is from 1870.

The bell tower stands separately from the church in the churchyard; the tower was the original entrance and gate tower.

St. Bodil's Church

St. Bodil's Church was built around 1200.  The church was dedicated to the English saint Botulf but by 1530 it had mistakenly become known by the woman's name "Bodil" although there has never been a Saint Bodil. As a result, the parish is called Bodilsker (Bodil's Church in Bornholm dialect). The church first belonged to the Archbishopric of Lund, then came under the Danish crown at the time of the Reformation. In the 19th century, it became fully independent. In 1903, as congregations grew, the church was threatened with demolition and reconstruction along the lines of Østermarie Church. Thanks to pressure from the National Museum to preserve it in the interests of national heritage action was delayed. The problem of capacity was solved in 1911 by adding a large transept. The church tower was renovated sometime around 1913 by the architect Mathias Bidstrup.

Kullmanns Mølle

Kullmanns Mølle, the largest windmill in Denmark, is located high above the town of Gudhjem.  Unfortunately, it doesn’t work anymore. Kullmanns Mølle was built by Matts Kullmann in about 1893, at the same time the residential building, bakery, and other buildings were built nearby.  The Kullmann family operated the mill until 1944 when the Asmussen grain company from Copenhagen took over the mill. The wings turned for the last time in 1962.  All technology was removed, and in 1965 the company sold the mill. Later it served as a nightclub and ceramic workshop, and in 1993 the mill was renovated and received new wings in their present size. In 1998, other parts of the mill were renovated, including the roof. After the restoration of the mill in 2009, there was a cafe, wine shop and exhibition hall.  Our guide told us that today the mill is closed.  

We were sorry not to get to the sandy beaches in the southern part of the island, as this was where Aimee vacationed with the Kalscheur family many years ago.  

We safely made it back to the ship, where we enjoyed some lunch and a quiet afternoon.  Tonight we will hear another lecture by what has become a favorite of the historians aboard the ship.