A Visit to Vienne ~ October 9, 2019

A Visit to Vienne ~ October 9, 2019

Hotel de Ville, Vienne

It was a dark and gloomy morning as we woke early to have breakfast before our walking tour of Vienne, France.  Vienne is one of the oldest cities in France, founded by the Romans under the administration of Pontius Pilate.  It was once the capital of the Celtic tribe called the Allobroges.  In 121 BC the Romans conquered the Celts.  Vienne became part of the Holy Roman Empire in the 9th century and was transferred to French sovereignty in 1450.  Its position on the Rhone River made it Rome's major wine port.  As such it became an important center of religion and culture.  Perhaps Vienne's greatest claim to fame today is that it contains one of the richest repositories of Roman and medieval buildings in all of France.

Donning rain gear and carrying an umbrella, and with trekking poles in hand, Jeff and I went out to greet our delightful guide.  Not only was she highly knowledgeable about the city and its history, her beautiful smile never faltered -- not even when the heavens opened and the rain came pouring down!

Remains of the Roman Wall that once enclosed the city

Saint Maurice Cathedral

This stained glass window (a more modern addition due to the destruction of the original windows during the war) is a tribute to Saint Maurice, an officer of the Theban Legion of Emperor Maximiah Herculius' army, composed of Christians from Upper Egypt.  He and his fellow legionnaires refused to sacrifice to the gods as ordered by the Emperor to ensure victory over the enemy.  As a result, Maximiah ordered the entire Legion (over 6,000 men) put to death.  The close up photo (right) depicts Saint Maurice in battle.

Our first stop was to Saint Maurice Cathedral. Built between 1052 and 1533, the basilica has three aisles and an apse, but no ambulatory or transepts.  It is 315 feet in length, 118 feet wide, and 89 feet in height (according to the sign I read).  Construction began in 1052 in a Late Romanesque style, but from my observations, it is rather eclectic with Gothic influences and several more modern embellishments, such as the 18th century Mausoleum of the Two Archbishops pictured directly above.

Next, we visited the early Romanesque church of Saint Peter belonged to an ancieent Benedictine abbey and was rebuilt in the ninth century.  It is one of France's oldest Christian buildings dating from the 5th century.  It boasts a beautiful Romanesque tower and a magnificently sculptured South portal containing a statue of Saint Peter.  Today the building is a lapidary museum.

A walk through a beautiful garden showcasing Roman ruins was a highlight for me.

One of the few timbered buildings in Vienne

Hotel de Ville

Our last stop was this early Imperial Temple of Augustus and Livia, a rectangular Corinthian building erected by the emperor Claudius.  It survives because it was converted to a church.   

By this point, the rains were pouring down and we hovered together under a portico.  It did not dampen our spirits, however, even though we were thoroughly soaked by the time we got back to the ship.

By mid-afternoon, the sun poked through and we were headed down the river to Tournon sur Rhone.  During our time on board the ship, Michael, our program director, gave a talk about Provence, and later that evening he delivered a fascinating talk on Joan of Arc.  Both were highly informative and entertaining.

The beauty of the French countryside continues to delight my senses.  Tomorrow, we will enjoy a highlight of the trip (I hope) for Jeff - a visit and ride on a steam train.