The Adventure Begins!
October 10, 2022
We left our house in Middlebury at a little after noon expecting an easy drive to JFK. There was heavy traffic leading up to the Whitestone Bridge, but even so, we got to our parking lot at about 2:30, dropped the car, and headed to the airport. Five minutes into the ride, Jeff tells me that he left both his sweater and his jacket in the car, so we tell our driver that we'll have to head back to pick it up. He was very nice about it and after retrieving said jacket and sweater we were back on our way to the airport. We decided to splurge on lunch at the Palm Restaurant. The food was outstanding, and we whiled away a couple of hours enjoying a couple of "adult beverages."
Once at our gate, we didn't have long to wait for our flight to be called. The flight was uneventful (although neither of us slept too much). I looked out the window shortly before landing and snapped the picture below of the sunrise over Venice. We also captured a few pictures of the Italian Alps.
Venice: October 11 - 13, 2022
We arrived at Marco Polo Airport early Tuesday morning, collected our luggage, and located the biglietteria (ticket machine) to purchase our tickets on the "Fly Bus," which took us from the airport to the railway station in Mestre. We walked across the street and down a block or so and found our hotel - The Best Western Hotel Bologna-Mestre. A very young and very charming young man (who spoke excellent English) greeted us warmly, and although at first, he said that our room was not ready, he smiled and said, "Let me check on something." He spoke with the manager in Italian and she nodded, and before we knew it we had our key and a map of suggestions of things to do. We were in our room in a flash, and we both settled down for a refreshing nap.
We walked back across the street to the train station and took the train into Venice - train fare was about $1.50 each.
There are no cars or vehicles of any kind in Venice. Everything comes into the city by rail or by boat and is carried to its final destination via the Grand Canal and the feeder canals throughout the city. We actually saw a barge carrying two cement mixers heading for somewhere in either Venice or one of the Islands (Murano or Burano)!
Following the advice of Rick Steves, we took the slow Vaporetto #1 from beginning to end. What a way to be introduced to Venice!
We rode from the Stazione Ferravaria all the way to Lido on our ticket, which cost 9.5 euro each. While on the way to Lido, a ticket checker came around making sure everyone had a ticket to ride. Basically, as in many places in Europe, the honor system is in effect. BUT ... if you are caught riding without a ticket, there is a HUGE (300 euro) fine. Anyway, at the end of the line, everyone got off the Vaporetto. We lingered and asked a crew person if we could just stay on. She shrugged, which we took to mean that yes, we could. And so we did. Some of the sunset pictures can be seen above - truly a spectacular way to get to know this beautiful city. I later discovered (while re-reading Rick Steves' Pocket Venice) that our Vaporetto ticket was only good for 75 minutes - going ONE way. Oops! I was glad that the ticket checker came by on our way to Lido and not on the way back!
To end our very long day, we stopped for dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Ai Scalzi, which was located near the train station. We shared a delightful bruschetta al pomodoro to start. For our main course, Jeff enjoyed a fresh pasta lasagna alla bolognese (which was a bit on the salty side for our taste but still very, very delicious), and I had the pennetti arrabbiata - which was very spicy and very delicious. We shared "un bottiglie di vino rossi," leaving the choice of which bottle to bring us to the waiter. He chose a lovely, fruity Italian Merlot, which was quite lovely and a grand accompaniment to both of our meal choices. So far, I am enjoying trying out my rudimentary Italian with our wonderful waiters.
After dinner, we headed back to the hotel. Trains arrive just about every 5-10 minutes, and the ride to Mestre is about 7 minutes. Very very convenient, and when we come back, we might opt to stay at the same hotel - less than half the cost of a hotel in Venice proper. True, it is not as picturesque, but for the amount of time we spent in the hotel, that is less important. Our other alternative would be to find a rental apartment for a week. We have been thoroughly charmed by this city ... and we've only just begun to get acquainted with her!
***
Our second day in Venice was just spectacular in terms of weather! We enjoyed a European breakfast at the hotel - fabulous coffee! I was reminded of how much I enjoyed Italian coffee on our rainy trip to Tuscany several years ago. The coffee did not disappoint, for sure. Jeff enjoyed a bowl of muesli (he referred to it as musinex at some point, and that made us both giggle) and a dish of fresh fruit. I indulged in a slice of baguette with a slice of turkey and a slice of ham on top. So, so tasty and filling. Despite my long list of touristy places to go (upon recommendation of Rick Steves), we decided to take the Vaporetto to the island of Burano, famous for lace-making. Burano is further afield than Murano (famous for glass blowing).
Here we are waiting for the #12 Vaporetto in Murano
We boarded the #3 Vaporetto, which took us to Murano, where we had to transfer to the #12. While we waited for the boat, Jeff struck up a conversation with a lovely lady from Zurich. He mentioned that we planned to go to Zurich in April, and she immediately said, "Oh! I will show you around! It will be so much fun to see you again." Jeff gave her his card and said, "Email me, and we can talk more about it." I think it will be interesting to see whether or not we hear from her again. We don't have her name or any contact info for her, so the ball is in her court.
Our afternoon on Burano was such a pleasure! We wandered through the very touristy parts of the tiny island. It has about 2300 inhabitants located on four small islands in the northern Venice lagoon. It is connected by a footbridge to the island of Mazzorbo, which we stumbled upon due to a tall tower that Jeff immediately felt drawn to. The town is known for its brightly colored houses and for the centuries-old needlework of Burano lace.
We wandered a bit after docking and decided that we would get something to drink and a light snack for lunch. Again, the bruschetta called our name. I decided to enjoy a bottle of sparkling water, and Jeff opted for una birra (a beer). We had a leisurely snack - one of the joys of European travel is that waiters don't rush you - at ALL. You have to ask for the check, "Il conto, per favore!" Many languages wash over you as you enjoy a meal. However, behind me were two American couples - one in their 50s and another in their 70s - who happened to be seated at adjacent tables and struck up a conversation. Both were in their second marriages and had "blended" families. The older couple was talking about her daughters and his kids. At one point, the younger woman said, and you have two daughters? The man hesitated a moment and said, "Umm, well, yes." Then he added that he had had a daughter and a son, but that his son is transitioning and is nonbinary (using the pronouns they/them). The man confessed that he finds it all terribly confusing - especially the pronoun thing, but he is doing the best he can. Fortunately, his daughter is understanding when Dad forgets to use they instead of she (or even the "birth" pronoun "he"). It was a strange conversation, for sure.
Our favorite part of the day was when we made our way across the footbridge to the tiny island of Mazzorbo and discovered a walled-in vineyard that is part of Venissa Wine Resort. To understand the importance of the winemaking tradition in Venice, just imagine that until 1100 there was a vineyard in the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square). The first traces of viticulture date back to over 2500 years ago, and the islands of the lagoon have always been cultivated, to allow a minimum of self-sufficiency in a lagoon where 92 percent of the surface is water, and where even the squares were cultivated. This is where the name "Campo" comes from! In 2002, Gianluca Bisol of the island of Torcello noticed a small vineyard in front of the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, the oldest church in Venice. He was intrigued, and met Nicoletta, the owner. After doing some historical and agronomic research on the vineyards, he discovered the great winemaking tradition of the islands of Venice. In 1966, however, "a year of great high water," destroyed the vineyards causing the loss of the Venice wine-making tradition. Further research brought to light a native vine, the Dorona di Venezia, which has, over the years, adapted to the salinity conditions typical of the lagoon.
Thanks to a team of agronomists and expert connoisseurs of the lagoon, the last 88 plants that survived the great high water were found in the islands of the Native Venice. During the research, the meeting with Gastone, a farmer who produced a small production of wine for the family, and who in the lagoon has carried out the typical wine production methods of the tradition, long macerations on the skins that give Dorona great longevity. From here Roberto Cipresso and Desiderio Bisol, oenologists from Venissa, took inspiration for the production of this white with the body and structure of a red. A few years later Gianluca's dream came true, identifying an estate on the Mazzorbo island, a stone's throw from Burano in the Native Venice. A “clos” surrounded by medieval walls and with a fourteenth-century bell tower inside the vineyard. The property, surrounded by water on three of the four sides, is crossed by a canal and houses a fish pond. A limit condition, which has led agronomists to advise against planting the vine given the high sodium content in the soil.
Despite this, and despite the risk of possible high waters that could destroy the vineyard, as already happened in 1966, Gianluca Bisol decides to replant the ancient vine, strong in the history of the estate that hosts the vine from 1300 and 800 was a winery that continued to produce wine until high water in 1966. Augusto Scarpa, owner of the winery at the turn of 1900, was one of the first Italian oenologists, graduated in 1901 in Conegliano. In 2010 the first harvest arrives, a production of 4880 bottles that brings the Dorona of Venice back to the most important wineries around the world. In the following years the wine, also thanks to the growing interest in macerated wines that occurs in the following years, becomes a cult and reaches the most important rankings in the sector. The minerality and the strong reference to the iodized terroir of the Native Venice are the notes that excite wine lovers. In 2011 the Rosso Venissa was also born, produced from a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the nearby island of Santa Cristina, from the same vineyard with the 2013 vintage also the Rosso Venusa was born.
We spent quite a bit of time wandering the small walled-in vineyard, enjoying the sunshine, the gardens, and the unique sculptures. From there we meandered back to the Vaporetto dock, stopping to admire the homes along the way.
The Vaporetto ride back to Venice took us to the outermost point, where we debarked and wandered for a bit until we located the Vaporetto that would take us back to the train station. We had to wait for about 20 minutes, so we decided to enjoy a glass of Prosecco. After all, it's Italy!
We got off the Vaporetto at San Marco and took in the sights - which were amazing! There are no words to describe the scale of the buildings and their ornate extravagant beauty. We decided to ascend La Campanile.
The Bridge of Sighs
After being judged guilty by the Doge and his council of elected men, a prisoner would be escorted across the "Bridge of Sighs" into prison.
La Prigione (The Prison
Doge's Palace
The Doge's Palace and the Basilica di San Marco
La Campanile (The Bell Tower)
The views from the bell tower were extraordinary, and we arrived at a very convenient time. There was almost no line! From there, we made our way to our Vaporetto and back to the station for dinner.
Jeff enjoyed a pizza margherita, and I had the ravioli alla bolognese -- we shared and found both to be quite wonderful. We were served by a waiter who had spent a considerable part of his life in Arizona -- he definitely sounded more American than Italian!
From there we went back to the hotel and fell into bed. I haven't found much time to work on this blog, and am now writing as we take the train to Florence. There is more to tell about our last full day in Venice, but the pictures below will have to suffice for now, since the train is getting close to Firenze!
Thursday in Venice
The pictures above are from the Correr Museum, which is attached to the Doge's Palace and was quite interesting.
Dinner was at the restaurant attached to our hotel and was delicious - a Greek salad and the sea bass with roasted cherry tomatoes and potatoes -- so very wonderful.
Tomorrow on to Firenze!
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