A Tour of the Island ~ Monday, November 14, 2016

November 14, 2016

Today we went on a full day bus tour of the eastern part of the Island.  There was a full bus load of folks from the three major hotels offered by the tour company who arranged this trip.  Part of the fun of the trip was getting to know some of the people.  We ended up sitting at a table at lunch with three couples from Portsmouth, NH.  John and Jen seem to be a fairly wealthy couple (she told me that they do a week or two trip every three months), Jim and Sherry used to live across the street from John and Jen and became good friends at that point, and Nate and Sharon.  They all are about 10 years younger than we are, but were a lot of fun to hang with.

Our first stop was Monte Brasil.  Monte Brasil is the remnant of a volcano (and peninsula) connecting the south coast of Terceira. It is flanked by two bays: the Bay of Angra (named for the city) to the east, and the Bay of Fanal to the west. Monte Brasil was used as a defensive point during the history of Angra.  Various forts and redoubts were constructed to enhance defense, including the Fortress of São João Baptista that overlooks the city.  Monte Brasil (and Terceira in general) was once occupied by Spanish forces. After many decades and additions to the fortress at the base of Monte Brasil, Portugal regained control after 1640. They in turn expanded the fortress. The pride of their success is reflected in the monument at the top of the mountain.  

There is also a very nice park at the top with walking trails which you can follow all the way down (or up) to the base.  Obviously, we did not do any of the walking trails as we were back on the bus after a short stop.  The views from the top were astounding!

This is Praça de Toiros da Ilha (Island Bullring).  According to Wikipedia, the Portuguese version of bullfighting is different from the Spanish version, and the Azorean variety, which began on Terceira, differs from the mainland style as well. The Azorean bullfight ritual involves "audience participation" in a way that recalls the "running of the bulls" at Pamplona (Spain).

On Terceira, four fighting bulls are enclosed in separate wooden crates for several hours and transported to the village where the bullfight will happen. Then a long thick rope is secured around his neck. Fireworks are exploded to signal the citizens that a bull will soon be let loose in the public square. Once the bull is released, some young men take hold of the rope to try to control the bull's head (they used to be called “mascarados da corda” or masked men of the rope). Others taunt the bull with everything from brightly colored fighting capes to parasols. "Parasol lucky" is the colorful name that has been given to the maneuvers that have been devised. It consists of putting the parasol (usually red) suddenly in front of the bull and trying to avoid his horns in the subsequent charge, while the men on the rope moderate its momentum. Their job is to not be dragged along while deliberately giving the bull a little more freedom to liven up the show.  A free-for-all ensues while the bull drags some men around by the rope and tries to punish his tormenters, by butting them to the ground and goring them (with blunted horns), or by trampling over them. The bulls, bred in the pastures of Terceiras’ central region, are chosen for their ability to follow figures and be cunning.  This is a popular leisure activity and public entertainment; it is known as the tourada à corda (English: bullfight-on-a-rope).  From May 1 to September 30, there are daily touradas; in fact, sometimes there are two or three in one day.

In the middle of the roundabout outside Praca de Toiros stands this sculpture of the bulls.  I couldn't find out who the sculptor was, but it is rather magnificent.

Next was a stop at a lookout point in Serretinha from which we had views of Ilheus des Cabras (Goat Islands).  I was taken by this simple house (above) overlooking the sea.

The Island is peppered with these chapels of the holy ghost, called Impérios.  They are brightly colored and decorated with scenes from the surrounding area.  This one, located in the village of São Sebastião (San Sebastian) depicts the agricultural aspects of the region with wheat and grapes being depicted.

The Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião (Church of San Sebastian) is located in the parish of Vila de São Sebastião.  It was built by the island's first settlers in 1455.  Over the years, the church has experienced a number of renovations due to damage from earthquake and fire.  A fire in May of 1789 resulted in the cementing over of the frescos that date back to the 1500s.  Recently a restoration project uncovered the frescos (see pictures below).  

Historic Praia da Vitória, is located in a large bay on the east coast, about 20 miles from Angra.  It has a sandy beach, a marina, and lots of shops.  Founded around 1456 as Vila da Praia, it received its present name from Queen Maria II in 1837 in grateful remembrance of the first victory of the Liberals over the Royalists on the 11th of August 1829 in a battle that took place off the town’s shores. Praia served as capital until it was superseded by Angra do Heroísmo in 1476. It was badly damaged by several earthquakes (1614, 1841 and 1980).

Praia da Vitória is Terceira’s most important seaport. The north quay accommodates the local fishing fleet while the south quay is occupied by the commercial harbor, with big container ships mooring here. 

Praia’s centre has a pleasant pedestrian zone with many attractive shops and some notable historic buildings, such as the Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz, an attractive parish church with a large façade with two imposing bell-towers that can be seen from far. Founded in the middle of the 15th century by the first captain-donee of the island, this three-naved church was consecrated in 1516 and over the centuries of its existence, it was damaged several times by earthquakes and restored again. 

South of the Matriz stands the noteworthy Paços do Concelho (Town Hall) at the main square Largo Francisco Ornelas da Câmara, which is adorned with the Estatua da Liberdada, a monument in memory of the heroes of the battle of 11th August 1829. The town hall was originally founded in 1591 and shows the typical architectural of north Portuguese manor houses, featuring an impressive double-staircase in the middle of its façade, which is flanked by a massive bell-tower on one side. The earthquake of 1614 destroyed the original Paço to a large extend, which explains the influences of 17th-century architecture that can be seen on the present building.

Next on our trip was lunch at a restaurant called Os Moinhos (The Mills), housed in an old water mill.

The meal was amazing and delicious.  We had vegetable soup, Alcatra de Carne (beef, white or red wine, cinnamon, jamaica pepper, and bacon, in a clay pot. The pot goes into a wood oven, and cooks for three or four hours.  It was served with Portuguese sweet bread and potatoes as well as the most amazing crusty bread. All the wine we could drink was included. 

Next we were off to the charming little town of Biscoitos. Due to its long wine-growing tradition, Biscoitos is the most important agricultural town on the north coast. This area has a unique panorama with rolling hills, covered with lush-green pastures, groves and the curious curraletas – small vineyards, protected by black basalt walls, where the famous ‘Verdelho’ is produced. The town got its name from the look of the stones that help to hold the heat in the soil.  Italians said they look like biscotti -- hence the name (at least according to our guide, Miguel). 

Biscoitos also boasts a small wine museum, opened in the beginning of 1990 on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the wine-producing factory of Francisco Maria Brum. 

The wine museum documents Terceira’s wine-growing history and the stages of wine production up to the storage in wooden barrels and shows an interesting display of related utensils and tools as well as photos and documents. Since 1993, the Confraria do Vinho Verdelho dos Biscoitos - a federation in favour of quality control and improvement of the locally produced wine - is also seated in this building. 

We were given a taste of the sweet white port-like wine that is the hallmark of the region.  Although I was not really a fan, it was a tasty sweet treat.

Back on the bus and the rain picks us as we head to Algar do Carvao (The Cave).  I did not go into the cave, so none of these are my pictures, but they give a good idea of what this extinct volcano looks like.

As the sun begins to go down, we head for our last stop of the day:  Furnas do Enxofre (Sulfur Furnace) in Porto Judeu.

The Furnas Sulphur is located in the parish of Porto Judeu.  The area has several aggressive volcanic gas exits at different temperatures ranging from 203 to 266 degrees fahrenheit.  

The whole area is extremely diverse in mosses and liverworts communities, with about 50 species recorded, some rare and registered in the "Red List of Bryophytes of Europe"