A Return to Italy ~ Bergamo: May 16 - 18, 2025
May 16, 2025
A Half Day in Bergamo
We took the 8:39 a.m. train from Verona, and after changing trains in Brescia, we arrived in Bergamo at about 10:30. What a difference between the regional trains and the more local ones!
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| Train from Verona to Brescia - end of the line |
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| Regional Train Brescia to Bergamo Bergamo is situated in the foothills of the Italian Alps, boasting a stunning natural backdrop of rolling hills and mountains. The city is divided into two distinct parts: the historic Città Alta and Città Bassa. The two towns are conveniently connected by a funicular.  We didn't actually ride this funicular, but we almost took it down to Bergamo Bassa by mistake while looking for the San Vigilio funicular! (More about that later.) |
Bergamo Alta is the oldest part of the city and the most interesting from a tourist perspective, so I opted for a hotel in that area, the Hotel Piazza Vecchia. We grabbed a taxi to our hotel, checked in, and left our bags before heading out for some sightseeing.
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| Hotel Piazza Vecchia As was the case in Verona, most of the places we wanted to visit are within walking distance of our hotel. Our plan for the day included a visit to the Palazzo della Ragione, the Torre del Campanone, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, and the Colleoni Chapel. |
The Palazzo della Ragione was built in the 12th century and has served as a courthouse for many centuries.
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| Palazzo della Ragione |
The "palace of reason" was one of the first Italian "Commune Halls" built nearly a thousand years ago to host the city's public meetings. But the current name (Palazzo della Ragione) dates back to a time of Venetian domination, when the palace was used as a courthouse. The judges would listen to legal arguments between citizens and make decisions based on their "ragione" (reason).
Next, we strolled over to the Torre del Campanone (Bell Tower), also known as the Civic Tower. Standing at just over 173 feet tall, the tower houses the largest bell in Lombardy.
Even today, the Campanone chimes one hundred times at 10 p.m. as a reminder of the closure of the city gates along the walls during the time of Venetian domination. Although we could have climbed the 230 steps to the top, we opted for the elevator and were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the old town.
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| Duomo (on the left) and the Cappella Colleoni (to the right) |
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| Cappella Colleoni The Cappella Colleoni (Colleoni Chapel) is a Renaissance funerary chapel built in 1476 at the behest of Bartolomeo Colleoni as his mausoleum, designed by Giovanni Antonio Amadeo and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Colleoni was an Italian military leader who served as the captain-general of the Republic of Venice. Colleoni gained a reputation as one of the foremost tacticians and disciplinarians of the 15th century. |
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| Duomo Di Bergamo |
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| Statue of Saint Alessandro on top of the Duomo |
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| Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore |
According to popular tradition, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore was built to fulfill a vow made to the Virgin Mary in 1133 by the citizens of Bergamo, who sought to protect the city from the plague that was ravaging northern Italy at the time. There is an inscription on the portal of the southern entrance that states the church was founded in 1137 on the site of another church from the 8th century, dedicated to St. Mary, which had been erected over a Roman temple of the Clemence. Construction continued through the 13th and 14th centuries.
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| This is a view of San Vigilio Hill taken from the Torre del Campanone |
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| I love this photo - it almost looks like a painting! |
After a short walk about the piazza, we elected to have lunch at a restaurant near our hotel.
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| Il Fornaio Il Fornaio takes the pizza game to a whole new level with its pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). Here’s how it works: you grab a ticket at the door and wait for your turn. When your number is called, you place your order and watch as they snip - yes, they use scissors - your pizza into a healthy slice. They charge by weight, so ... depending on the toppings you choose, it can get pricey. |
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| The Baptistry |
Built between 1897 and 1900 by Virginio Muzio, reusing what remained of the old baptistery built in 1340 by Giovanni da Campione. This was originally located inside Santa Maria Maggiore as a baptismal pool, which was dismantled in 1660.
We decided to have dinner just a few steps away from our hotel at Il Sole.
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| I loved this sign! |
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Albergo Sole Ristorante - a hotel and restaurant nearby
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Jeff ordered the special, which consisted of some sort of beef dish, which he thoroughly enjoyed. The only thing that appealed to me was the asparagus risotto, which was rather delicious. As I recall, he had the cheesecake for dessert.
All in all, it was a great day!
May 17, 2025
Day 2 in Bergamo
Breakfast in Italy is relatively simple, typically consisting of a sweet roll and espresso or cappuccino. Breakfast was included at our hotel, and when we sat down, we were offered coffee or tea. I ordered un caffe per favore, and our server asked if I wanted latte (milk), which I hadn't been asked before and had grown accustomed to drinking my (very good) Italian coffee black. But I said I would like some milk, and she returned with my Americano and a pitcher of steamed milk. It was delightful. In addition to numerous cakes and sweet rolls, there were also platters of meat and cheese, as well as several different types of bread.
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| Our breakfast view |
After breakfast, we set off to find the Funicular di San Vigilio. We had a map (of sorts), but the streets are narrow, winding, and often end in a dead end. We made several wrong turns, and I convinced Jeff that we were on the wrong track, resulting in us ending up at the funicular that would have taken us into the lower town. It was another spectacular day - sunny, warm (but not too warm) - and although we didn't do much "touristy" stuff, the sights and sounds along the way brought smiles to our hearts and faces.
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| City Walls surround Bergamo Alta |
One of the things I wish we had had more time to do was to explore the Venetian walls of Bergamo -- we captured bits of them on our ramble today, but there was so much more to see. I am already planning a return to this magical place.
The walls of Bergamo were built in 1561 by the Republic of Venice and today represent an extraordinary example of Renaissance military architecture. They were built to protect the city from enemy attacks, and today, more than four centuries later, they still stand majestic, perfectly preserved, completely embracing the perimeter of the Bergamo Alta.
The entire complex includes 14 bastions (part of a fortification built at an angle to the line of a wall, so as to allow defensive fire in several directions), two platforms, four monumental main gates (St. James, St. Augustine, St. Lawrence, and St. Alexander), two powder magazines, about 100 openings for gun ports, and a dense underground system of tunnels and burrows, which constituted an advanced strategic infrastructure for the time.
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| Cappella Colleoni |
I loved the shadows that added to the beauty of even the simplest of stone buildings!
As we wandered the streets of Bergamo in search of the San Vigilio Funicular, we paused from time to time to rest and to capture the beauty of the ancient structures. Flowers grow in the masonry of ancient walls seemed to glow in the warm Italian sunshine.
As is often the case throughout Europe, shops are decorated with flowers that spill over wrought iron balconies.
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| Torre della Campanella |
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| Palazzo Bergamaschi |
This woman had a bag of baby carrots that she was feeding to the goats!
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| Goats in the Parco del Colli di Bergamo (Park of the Hills) |
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| The lady with the carrots gave some to these kids, who laughed and laughed as they fed the goats! |
But ... eventually, we found the right funicular.
To reach the funicular, we had to walk through one of the four city gates, Porta Sant'Alessandro, which was built between 1565 and 1575.
The Porta Sant'Alessandro serves as an entrance to the city for those arriving from Lecco and Como. Its name comes from the nearby Basilica of Sant'Alessandro, which was demolished in 1561 to allow for the construction of the walls. The gate is also known for the "Column of Saint Alexander," which marks the spot where the demolished cathedral once stood.
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| Waiting in line for the funicular |
San Vigilio is a hill overlooking the Citta Alta and has been a strategic location for centuries. The hill is home to the San Vigilio Castle, a historic fortress with a star-shaped plan and four towers. The castle has been held by various rulers over the centuries and was updated and strengthened by the Venetian Republic in the 15th century.
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| A look back at the Porta Sant'Alessandro! |
The gate features a prominent relief carving of the Lion of Saint Mark, a symbol of Venice, which controlled Bergamo during the time the gate was built. The Lion of Saint Mark is a winged lion, often depicted with a halo, holding a paw on an open book.
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| Funicular di San Vigilio |
The funicular dates back to 1912. It takes you up 90 meters in elevation at a 22 percent grade. At the top, there are a couple of restaurants and the castle, offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape.
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| A glimpse of the restaurant where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch |
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| Looking at the Swiss Alps miles and miles away |
When we stepped off the funicular, we walked a short way to a small terrace where we could get 360 degree views that took our breath away. It was well worth the time we spent searching for the funicular!
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| A beautiful villa |
The Church of San Vigilio. The text above the door translates to "As we worship you, keep watch. So you protect us." The date below the text is 1980 (MCMLXXX).
When we had our fill of the beautiful surroundings, we went in search of something for lunch, deciding to try the Barretto di San Virgilio. A lovely young woman led us to a balcony overlooking Citta Alta.
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| Baretto di San Vigilio |
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| A carafe of water and glasses with lemon and ice |
Even before they took our order, they brought us a basket of bread and a plate with a small bowl of tomato sauce with some sort of creamy cheese - almost like burrata or maybe it was homemade ricotta. Whatever it was, it was absolutely delicious. My mouth is watering just writing about it!
Jeff ordered ravioli, and I ordered risotto with asparagus. Having tasted both dishes, I can attest that this was yet another fantastic Italian meal. I will add that the Italians make risotto so much better than any I have had in the U.S. (even my own). Jeff opted for a gin tonic (as the Italians call it), and I had a lovely glass of the house white wine, which was crisp and delicious.
After a leisurely lunch, we meandered back to the funicular for the return trip down to Citta Alta and a walk back to the hotel for a well-earned nap!
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| Hotel Piazza Vecchia |
When looking for a place to stay in Bergamo, I read several blogs. One blogger described the Hotel Piazza Vecchia as having "rustic Italian vibes." That description and the fact that it was within the Piazza Vecchia area sold me on the hotel, and I booked it then and there! It did not disappoint.
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| Our Room |
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| Hotel Piazza Vecchia |
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| The long steep stairway to the "lobby" of the Hotel Piazza Vecchia |
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| Jeff Enters Our Room |
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| The Window in our Room |
After an afternoon nap, we headed back out to find some dinner. We opted to go to Lalimentari, a bar and restaurant right on the Piazza Vecchia. It just started to rain as we got there, so rather than get a table outside, we went inside.
Jeff enjoyed a four cheese pizza, and I ordered the tagliatelle (which was delicious). He had a beer with his pizza and I ordered the obligatory glass of the house white.
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| Jeff's dessert ... Lemon sorbet! |
I am totally in love with Bergamo! A true highlight of our trip!
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