On the Road Again! Train Adventure 2021: June 7 ~ June 23

June 20 - 21, 2021 ~ A Short Adventure in Chicago

A good night's sleep in the Fairfield Inn and Suites works wonders.  We woke late and scurried downstairs for the complimentary breakfast.  Then we headed down to the Riverwalk to catch the 11:15 Wendella Cruises architectural tour.  We've done the boat tour along the Chicago River many times and enjoy it every single time.  This time was no exception.  Our tour guide, was knowledgeable and interesting to listen to.  She has been teaching history in the Chicago Public Schools for three years, and this is her summertime gig.  

When we returned after our tour, we walked along the Riverwalk to find a restaurant where we enjoyed some hamburgers and wine/beer.  Then it was back to the hotel for a bit of rest and relaxation before our next adventure -- LIVE in person JAZZ at Andy's Jazz Club - just three blocks from the hotel.

We had heard Andy Brown play at the Green Mill the last time we were in Chicago.  I think he was playing a solo gig at that time.  This time he had a bassist (Joe Policastro) and a drummer (Joe , and they were really good.  We ended up staying for both sets.  Jeff remarked that he played a number of obscure tunes, but they were all good.

June 18 - 19, 2021 ~ Riding the California Zephyr

We woke to a message from Amtrak that our train has been delayed "due to late operations."  Translation:  the train has been delayed because it is operating late.  So ... we had the "included" breakfast here at the hotel and have been cooling our heels every since.  Scheduled departure 10:23 a.m. has come and gone.  New departure time is 1:14 p.m.  We'll head for the station in an hour or so just in case they make up more of the time.

Update - June 21:  Checkout time at the hotel was 12:00 noon, so we headed over to the station shortly thereafter, checked in and settled down to wait ... and wait ... and then wait some more.

Inside the "new" (1992) train station

The ticket agent got tired of changing the arrival time, and just wrote "DELAYED"

Ticket Agent's Window

Our train crew waiting patiently for the train to arrive

Jeff and Noah

This is Noah, a young man that Jeff met while he was doing a walkabout prior to us leaving the hotel.  Noah lives in Washington, DC.  He flew to San Francisco on June 1st and has been cycling his way back to the east coast.  He was running a bit behind his schedule, so he decided to catch the train from Grand Junction to Denver.  Jeff (being Jeff) invited him to take a shower in our hotel room.  He was a nice young man with a terrific smile.

The original Grand Junction Station was completed in 1906 and operated until 1992 

Over the years, the station has fallen into a state of disrepair. The windows are boarded and the interior has become largely dilapidated. The exterior of the structure is in fair condition, with much of its original features, facades, and decorations remaining intact.  Recently there has been some talk of a renovation for retail use.  Amtrak is content with the new station building - which is a poor substitute, in my opinion.

The replacement station, built in 1992.

             

           

Here we are relaxing in our room.  Jeff is on the couch (which converts into a cozy, not-quite-full-sized bed at night, and I am sitting on a chair.  We also have a convenient in the room toilet/shower combo.  There is a sign in there that suggest sitting down while showering.  I can't imagine taking a shower while the train jolts along!  However, it's nice to have the in-room toilet.  

The scenery as we left Grand Junction and headed for Chicago was beautiful.  Grand Junction was named for its location at the confluence of the Colorado and Gunnison Rivers.  We saw the basalt-capped Grand Mesa, the world's largest flat-topped mountain, looming above the fertile floodplains of the rivers.  What a  contrast between the sandstone mountain with its sparse vegetation and the lush floodplain planted with a variety of crops.

Having missed lunch, we opted for the first seating at dinner, heading to the adjacent dining car at 5:30 p.m.  We reminisced about our first trip on the Coast Starlight from Vancouver to Los Angeles 15 or so years ago.  There was a private "parlor car" for the sleeping car passengers.  You could go there and sit, sipping a cocktail or glass of wine and enjoy complimentary cheese and crackers.  The dining car was upscale with tablecloths, and the food was served on real plates with real cutlery.  The food may not have been completely "cooked to order" but it wasn't microwaved and or pre-packaged and heated up in an oven.  

That said, we made our dinner choices:  shrimp with lobster sauce for me and red wine braised beef for Jeff, and ate every bite.  

While we were dining, we passed through Glenwood Springs, Colorado.  Jeff remarked that it was a Disneyland town, complete with Adventure Park and Hot Springs.  The town is located in the narrow mountain valleys that host the confluence of the Colorado and the Roaring Fork Rivers. The surrounding terrain is steeply contoured on all sides, and we were told that there are several caves in the area.  It has an interesting history - at one point the town was called Defiance!  It's a pretty little town - a place that it might be fun to visit at some point.  

Our dining table hostess, Delicia (dee-lee-sia), was very accommodating, bringing us our complimentary first adult beverage, and then a second.  We lingered as long as we could before heading back to our sleeping compartment to continue watching the scenery until nightfall.

One loses all sense of time when traveling by train.  I have no idea what time it was when we signaled our  steward to come and make up our bed for the night, but it was sometime before "quiet hours" which begin at 10 p.m.  Brad made swift work of opening up the bed and bringing down the pre-made supplemental mattress.  Before long we we snug in the bed as the train continued rocking and rolling, jolting and jumping throughout the night.  At some point in the night they picked up speed in a futile attempt to pick up some of the lost time.  It felt to me like we were flying down the track.

It was dark before we got to the Rocky Mountains outside of Denver.  Strike two for trying to see the Rocky Mountains by train.  Will we try again?  Maybe .... maybe we'll go to Glenwood Springs for a few days on our way to someplace - who knows, maybe we'll take the Zephyr to Grand Junction with a stop in Glenwood Springs, before going on to our next visit to Chama?

We leave the Colorado River behind and cross the Mississippi River as we head toward Chicago, our final destination for this part of our trip.

We were disappointed to learn that there would be no dinner served on the train - despite the fact that we were not due in to Chicago until after 8:30 p.m.  Lunch that day was also skimpy -- a hamburger or hot dog with a bag of chips.  Along about 7 p.m. the car stewards were called to the diner car and shortly thereafter we were handed a "snack box" -- 4 crackers, a packet of hummus, a packet of some sort of processed cheese, and some miscellaneous inedible "stuff."  Epic fail, in my opinion.

Anyway, we finally arrived, got off the train, collected our luggage, and ventured outside to find a taxi.  We checked into our hotel and quickly went back out to see if we could locate some dinner.  We found The Smith restaurant and secured a table.  A couple of glasses of delicious chardonnay and the Spring Pea salad with chicken for me and the macaroni and cheese appetizer for Jeff.  Both were delicious - really - even though I think cardboard would have been delicious at that moment.

I took this photo the following morning on our way to our Architectural tour by boat

Back down the street to the hotel and into bed for a truly excellent night's sleep!  Tomorrow will bring new adventures in Chicago!

June 17, 2021 ~ A Scenic Drive to Grand Junction, Colorado

We rose early to another beautiful day.  We loaded up the car, stripped our bed, made a picnic lunch out of the last 4 slices (actually 2 slices and 2 heels) of our whole grain bread, washed up, dried, and put away the few remaining dishes, took out the garbage, and said "goodbye" to the Little Rock House on Maple.  It's a great little house, and we love it just as much today as we always have.

We made a stop in town for breakfast, and then we were on our way to Grand Junction, Colorado, where we will board the California Zephyr headed to Chicago.  The drive from Chama to Durango was uneventful, and as we continued on we passed familiar turf as the tracks of the Durango and Silverton run parallel to the road for several miles.  We passed Trimble Springs, hot springs that have been open for visitors since the late 19th century, and which we had seen on our last trip with Vicki and Chuck Heidorn.  We travelled alongside the Animas River and under the Hermosa Cliffs.  Then onward past Haviland Lake and Electra Lake.  We saw Engineer Mountain and Twilight Peak and then crossed Coal Bank Pass (elevation 10,640 feet)  As we crossed Molas Pass (elevation 10,970 feet), I caught a glimpse of Molas Lake and the Animas River Gorge as we came into Silverton.

We stopped in Silverton to eat our sandwiches.  It was to be a quick stop that turned into a long stop while Jeff waited for the train from Durango -- which was well over an hour late.  He says it was worth it as it was a "doubleheader" led by an engine he had not seen before.  

Finally we made the turn onto Route 550 dubbed "The Million Dollar Highway," which runs for about 25 miles between Silverton and Ouray.  The twelve miles south of Ouray through the Uncompahgre Gorge to the summit of Red Mountain Pass (elevation 11,018 feet) is really what gives the road that moniker.  Jeff can tell you that it is challenging to drive, and I can say that it's a bit terrifying to be a passenger and see the drop-offs on the right side of the road without a guardrail in sight!  Steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and the lack of guardrails (as I mentioned) make for a harrowing drive.  Going up Red Mountain Pass is both beautiful and terrifying.  There are a number of hairpin curves used to gain elevation.  

Neither of the photos above are mine (obviously), but they are accurate depictions of our experience.

U.S. 550 ends at the corner of Townsend Avenue and San Juan Avenue in Montrose, Colorado at the junction of its parent route U.S. Highway 50, and from there, there wasn't much to see.  I did capture a couple of pretty photos - mostly of the beautiful sky.

At long last we arrived at our hotel and checked in.  Jeff had a Danbury Railway Museum meeting via Zoom, which he attended, and then we went out for a walk down the street to get some dinner at the Rockslide Brewery.  

We both enjoyed our dinner and enjoyed a walk around Grand Junction before returning to the hotel for an early bedtime.

June 16, 2021 ~ A Search for Tierra Wools

The larder is getting bare ... it must be time to head home.  This morning, out of milk and cereal, we headed into Chama to the Rio Chama Espresso and Coffee shop where I once again had Cowboy Coffee and the New Mexico Sunrise -- egg, bacon, cheese, and green chiles on a warm ciabatta roll.  It was eggsalent!  The chiles this time were quite spicy, and I liked it!  Jeff had tea and a lemon danish.  He said his cinnamon roll/cupcake thing was better ... and not as sweet.

There are lots of folks in town since this is the start of a Friends of the Cumbres and Toltec work session.  People come from all over the country - at their own expense (although the Friends provide lunches and snacks daily) - to work on a variety of projects.  The sessions are really well organized, and I believe that people can sign up to work on what they want to do.

I love seeing that even the females get to wield a crowbar!  It's really great to see so many people who value this little railway as much as we do.  Jeff said that he puts in all his volunteer time at the Danbury Railway Museum, so when we come here, he wants to be on vacation!  I can understand that, knowing how much time he puts in at the DRM.

After breakfast we headed south to find Tierra Woolens in a sleepy little town called Tierra Amarilla.  Or so we thought.  We've been there before, and it was a charming spot with a large show room and a large space for offering weaving classes.  The merchandise is all hand made, and truly spectacular.  

So we drove, both of us looking carefully for the sign - it was a huge billboard with TIERRA WOOLENS in large letters and an arrow pointing to the right.  We drove, and we drove, and we drove, and then we were in Abiqui ... at Bode's .... and we knew we had gone too far.  But ... no worries, we've on vacation ... the first vacation since the dreaded COVID time of seclusion and isolation.  We turned into the road for Old Abiqui and looked around a bit.  We stopped into the Jonathan Bosshard Gallery, located in a building that was Grants Mercantile in 1890, a general store, post office, stage coach stop and jail back when Abiquiu was the starting place of the Old Spanish Trail.  The house next door to the shop is absolutely gorgeous from the outside, with a lush lawn (which was being watered as we arrived) and beautiful gardens.  The "gallery" has all sorts of highly priced items -- some Asian, some made by local Navajo and Apache Indians.  We spent half an hour or so looking and decided that there was little there that we would have a place for in our home.

The rock formations in the Abiquiu area are amazingly beautiful -- breathtaking, really.  No matter how many times we drive through, we always breathe a heartfelt "WoW!"  The colors and the shapes just take your breath away.

This is St. Thomas' Church in old Abiquiu.  It has a daily mass at 8:00 a.m. -- that's it.  

We wanted to go to Georgia O'Keefe's Abiquiu house and museum, but it is still closed due to COVID.  Definitely on the agenda for next visit.

So ... without going to Tierra Woolens as planned, we headed back to Chama.  Surprise!  Tierra Woolens had moved to a lovely ranch that had been for sale for several years ... it was literally less than two miles from our Chama abode!  We stopped in to see the new place.  The space is much smaller than the old place, but it is modern and sufficient for their needs - at least according to the apparent owner.  

We ended our afternoon back at Local Eatery - the pizza place we visited earlier in our visit.  Calling it a "pizza place" isn't really fair, though.  They serve outstanding salads (I haven't eaten one -- just seen them coming out of the kitchen and hearing people rave), some nightly specials, and steaks sold by the ounce.  I heard one woman order a 6 ounce, and it was priced at $16.50 -- not a terrible price for a good steak (and she raved about it).  This was a late lunch for us, and we shared a Margherita Pizza and had beers and wine.

Tonight will be "clean out the fridge" night - leftover chicken, rice, and some really yummy carrots that I roasted last night with some of my favorite balsamic vinegar that's really more of a syrup than a vinegar (I brought it from home), and there is some fresh broccoli to be steamed and added to the carrots.  

I'm doing laundry as I type this, so packing will also be part of my evening's entertainment.  Next stop:  Grand Junction, Colorado.

June 15, 2021 ~ We Go Our Separate Ways

Jeff got up early this morning and headed down to the station at the crack of dawn.  He photographed folks as they were setting up for today's excursion to Osier and back.  When the ticket office opened, he bought a coach seat for himself.  Then he boarded the train.

I, on the other hand, spent the day working on finalizing my presentation(s) for the weeklong Cheshire Curriculum Institute.  It is finally pretty close to the way I want it to be, and I think it will go well.

~~~

It has been a great trip, but I do have to say that I miss Fay's special touch.  She managed to be generally invisible save for an occasional conversation over the fence, but you could always tell that she had been tending to things ... freshening up the towels (I think we got fresh towels at least every other day), changing the sheets every three days, and leaving some delicious baked goods.  She had a recipe for lemon bars (one of the few sweets that call my name) with just a hint of coconut in the crust.  There were always buttery thin chocolate chip cookies that Jeff just adored.  She would present the yummy bits under a napkin that she made into a little tent with a bit of ribbon.  Last time we were here, he left Fay a note in front of the napkin (which resembled a ghost) that read:  "The Ghost of Cookies Past."  Fay definitely got a kick out of that and made not only another plate of cookies, but also sent Jeff a box of her homemade cookies a few weeks after we got back home.  That's just who Fay is, and we miss her on this trip.

The new owners, who both have been out and about in the yard, have never introduced themselves - well the husband, Bobby, did meet Jeff half way one evening, but I think Jeff really initiated that.  Kindra, the one who really "runs" the "business" (and that's definitely what this is for her) has waved once or twice, but hasn't really interacted much.  There used to be a fence that separated the Little Rock House from the main house.  It was partly to keep Fay and John's two large standard poodles from scaring the guests -- they were very loud barkers -- but I think it was also to provide separation.  I never felt that the big house was that close ... until now.  They also have taken down the fence around the garden - where Fay had both flowers and vegetables that also provided some level of screening between the two houses.  It's odd but true that we used to feel as if we had far more privacy than we do now.

Fay also was meticulous about tending to the flowers and vegetables in the flower boxes that surround the house.  A favorite past time of mine was to sit outside and watch the hummingbirds.  There were cherry tomatoes and herbs planted in the kitchen window boxes.  You could open the windows and pick them for your supper!  Alas ... Kindra has plastic flowers in the front window boxes and nothing in the wind boxes over the kitchen windows.  Sigh ...

All of that said, there are a few things that they've done that we like.  There used to be a large electric stove and a large fridge, which really left little room for a kitchen table.  They've scaled these back, allowing for a small, four person table that works just great.  They've installed very nice Levelor shades on all of the windows - a great addition given the decreased privacy.  There's a propane fired "fire pit" on the patio -- we haven't used it as it has been very warm - especially in the late afternoon/evenings.  There is also new patio furniture - a wicker set with great cushions that are stored in a rain resistance box under one of the window boxes.  And ... best of all ... a GREAT set of kitchen knives.  Man, those babies can chop!  

June 14, 2021 ~ Excursion to Durango

Durango, Colorado is about a two hour drive from Chama, and we have generally made that trek to and from once during our visits to Chama.  Because we have this gigantic Dodge Durango "truck" -- not really a truck, but the dang thing seats eight people with two rows of rear seats -- it's a gas hog for sure, so we had thought about doing something a little more local today ... because the Cumbres and Toltec did not run any trains today.  

We talked about doing a hike from some place outside of Pagosa Springs (about an hour from Chama), but both of us are feeling the altitude a bit and worried that it might be more than we wanted to do.  When we woke up this morning, we decided to head for Durango, have lunch, and then Jeff could see the short trip come in (it only goes half-way to Silverton and back), and he could do the 2:30 yard tour, which he always enjoys.  I enjoy sitting in the station and "people watching" and I also thought I could sit on the patio of the Palace and order some iced tea while waiting for Jeff.  The Palace Restaurant, unfortunately, was a victim of COVID and is permanently closed -- awaiting a new owner.  So I sat in the station and enjoyed watching the comings and goings of a variety of people.

We had a big lunch at a Mexican Restaurant across from the station.  Jeff had a giant burrito, and I had the chicken fajita salad.  Either one of those dishes could have fed both of us.  Although we've gotten better at remembering to order just one entree or sandwich and share it, we didn't do that this time.  I ate less than half of mine and was stuffed!  Even as I type this at 9:30 pm, I still feel stuffed.

Back at our Little Rock House, we tuned in to Emmet Cohen's Monday night "gig" and watched it on my computer while listening on a 4" Bose mini-speaker that Bethany had given to Jeff a few years ago for Christmas.  Great sound.

I made marinated teriyaki (thank you Soy Vay Island Teriyaki) Chicken with rice and peas for dinner, but because I had had such a large lunch, I did not eat dinner.

And so ... another day - beautiful and HOT -- ends.  Sorry for the lack of pictures, but the syncing between my phone and the computer is extraordinarily slow.  Stay tuned, you might see more pictures later in the trip.

June 13, 2021 ~ Chasing the Students' Freight Train

This morning after breakfast, Jeff headed down to the station to get some information from the dispatcher about when the students might be bringing the freight train back down from Osier.  The plan will be to try to meet that train as it comes into Los Pinos and then follow it down the valley into Chama.  It is another glorious blue sky, bright sunlit morning.  The humidity is non-existent, and the early morning temperature is cool.  A light breeze moves the leaves on the trees gently.  As I sit and write this I hear a woodpecker in the distance, and the chittering of the squirrels.  From time to time I can hear the call of the black-billed magpie.

Photo credit:  All About Birds

Photo credit:  All About Birds

Both Jeff and I were under the impression that the Black-billed Magpie was the New Mexico state bird, but it is not.  Instead, the state bird is the Greater Roadrunner (and, yes, there is a Lesser Roadrunner).

Photo credit:  All About Birds

When Jeff returned from the station he had some details and a plan.  We packed a couple of sandwiches and a bottle of water, and headed up to Los Pinos to wait for the train.  Los Pinos is at the bottom of the valley with the Los Pinos River running through it.  Even though New Mexico (and much of the west) is suffering from a drought, the river, which is fairly shallow, meanders through the valley.  We've seen several fisherman casting their lines over the past week.  We wait at the top of a hill and look down into the valley, and when we spot the train, it looks like a model train set chugging along.  It's amazing how tiny it looks.  [I'm having trouble downloading pictures from my phone, but will add them later -- the one below is from the Internet.]

As we waited for the freight train to arrive, we pulled out our sandwiches and enjoyed a picnic in the car.  It's amazing to me how a simple car picnic can be so much fun.

We ended our day with a concoction of pork chops, onions, and barbecue sauce that we slow cooked on the grill.

June 12, 2021 - Early Morning Photos and a Snack at Local Eatery

I had a quiet morning after another restless night.  Jeff got up early to go down to the yard where the people in the fireman school were moving a lot of equipment around and making up a freight train that they would take up to Osier (that's the halfway point between Chama and Antonito where the trains stop for lunch).  Jeff spent some time talking with the dispatcher and discovered that they would be spending the night at Osier and returning tomorrow.  While Jeff was doing his train thing, I did some reading and took a walk.  You can walk from one end of Chama to the other and back in a little more than an hour!

It's quiet in town, and although people are starting to come to town again, it isn't nearly the way it was two years ago when we were here with Vicki and Chuck Heidorn.  You do see people wearing masks, and many places require masks for anyone not fully vaccinated, but it's all on the "honor system."  Jeff and I wear them if we are inside and not eating or drinking.  

Jeff had an early lunch, and we decided to go to Local for a glass of wine/beer and a margherita pizza when they opened at 3 pm.  

The pizza was truly delicious -- very thin sourdough crust with just the right amount of sauce, cheese, and basil.  The chardonnay was crisp and not too oaky, and Jeff enjoyed his Mexican light beer.  

 

The place is surprising upscale and seems almost out of place in Chama, but it's very nice.  The menu is pretty basic:  wood-fired pizza, a few appetizer choices, and steaks.  The guy pictured above left near the pizza oven seems like the owner, and his daughter serves as waitress/counter help.  The decor is rustic and modern all at the same time.  Our waitress told us that they have been open for two years, but I know for certain that they were not open in June of 2019.  They managed to hang on through the COVID shut downs and are hoping that now that COVID worries are subsiding with more and more people being vaccinated, that tourism will pick up and it will be a busy place.

Some rustic touches -- the mounted buffalo head, and the rustic beams and supports made from rails.  There was also a pen and ink drawing of a locomotive framed in what was made to look like an Etch a Sketch.  As you enter the door, there is a seating area with comfortable looking couches -- I suppose that is designed for people to sit while they wait for a table.

As you can see from the above left picture, there is a propane fired "fire pit" with seating for folks who want to eat and drink out of doors, and there are tables and chairs out there as well as a corn hole game for those who want to drink and play.  

We truly enjoyed everything about the place, and will probably go back there for dinner on Wednesday before we leave for the return to Connecticut adventure.

June 11, 2021 - A Drive to Antonito

               

This morning we woke to the sounds of the train.  Jeff tells me that there is a group of guys who are signed up for the four-day fireman school.  Anyone can sign up to learn to be a fireman or an engineer ... for a price.  Fireman school costs $2,250 and the engineer class costs $2,750.  They also run an advanced class for folks that have done both fireman and engineer school.  That costs a whopping $5,000.  Lodging and meals other than lunches are not included.  Jeff met a guy yesterday who is doing the fireman school and then staying on to do engineer school.

Anyway, we had a quick breakfast and headed down to Antonito in hopes of seeing Number 489, the locomotive that was converted to oil, in service.  Alas, our information was wrong, and the train we hoped to see was out on a full day excursion, and not the half day that we were told about.  Oh well!  Jeff had a nice walk about the area and took some photos.

We returned to Chama and decided to have lunch at the Boxcar Cafe.  We both enjoyed the Boxcar Burger, but I had chopped green chilis added to mine.  Delicious!

For the record ... I did NOT eat that mountain of french fries!

Back to the Little Rock House for an afternoon nap (Jeff) and some reading on the patio (Linda).  

I love the sky - so blue!

I was mesmerized by the heart shadows on the screen door.

I wasn't much hungry after that giant burger, so I just heated up some leftover chicken and rice and cooked up some frozen peas for Jeff.  Later in the evening when JJ went down to the station to take another round of night pictures, I had a few crackers and some delicious cheddar cheese to end my day.

June 10, 2021 - On the Chase

We woke early this morning and enjoyed some coffee and cereal here at the Little Rock House before getting in the car to "chase" the train as it left town and headed to Osier and back.  Once the train leaves Cumbres Pass, you can't really "chase" it with the car.  I snapped the photo above from the car.  You can see just how brilliant the sun is and how blue the sky.  We have truly been blessed with wonderful weather -- low humidity and temperatures in the high 70s.  

It never ceases to amaze me how many people chase the train.  We saw a family of what appeared to be "locals" chasing it in a pickup truck -- "Uncle John" and 4 kids between three and seven were riding in the back of the truck.  In the photo below you can see Uncle John, but the four kiddos are sitting down.  They were having a blast!

I've been thinking about this little town and what makes it a place we like to come back to time and again.  Certainly, there is the lure of the train, and I do share Jeff's fascination with these big iron beasts.  Fortunately a group of preservationists purchased nine steam locomotives, over 130 freight and work cars, along with the Chama yard and maintenance facility in 1970 for $547,120.  A year later they began hauling tourists and have been doing so for 50 years!  They have five active steam locomotives:  

Number 484 was built in 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive Works.

It was restored to operational condition in 1983.

Number 487, also built in 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive Works.

It was returned to service in 2008 after extensive reconditioning.

Number 488 was also built in 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive Works.

Number 489, also built in 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive Works.

It underwent extensive restoration and was returned to service in 2003.

It was taken out of service to have a new smokebox installed in June 2020 and was also converted to oil.  We saw this locomotive under steam during this trip, but did not ride behind it.

Number 463 was built in 1903 by the Baldwin Locomotive Works.  

It returned to operation in 2013.

All of these locomotives were built for the Denver &Rio Grande Western Railroad.

In addition, to these operational steam engines, the Cumbres and Toltec have Number 483 which is being cosmetically restored.  The above picture was taken during a 1965 rail fan trip from Alamosa, Colorado to Farmington, New Mexico.

But my love of Chama goes beyond the train.  The town itself is charming, and it was really great to see some new businesses in town.  They now have a pharmacy - something that I always thought was sorely needed.  I mentioned the new coffee shop, which went into a building that I think was some sort of trading post in the past.  In recent years they have added a hardware store as well.  The other night when we were coming back from a run to the Dollar General (yes, even in sleeping Chama), I noticed a new restaurant called Local, which we definitely have to try.  I looked up their menu, and they have some interesting food choices.  The interior looks very "upscale" and from the glimpse we had going by, it seems that it's the place to be for the young locals.

I love this shot of downtown Chama at night!

This is the Fosters, which seems to have new life this year.  

I noticed a restaurant there that I had not seen before.

I also love this little church.  It is pastored by a husband and wife team.

This is Rio Chama Espresso Bar, where we had breakfast on Wednesday morning.

We have often lunched at the Boxcar Cafe over the years.

Which brings me to another thing I like about Chama ... its people.  It's a town that relies on tourism, to be sure, but the people just seem genuinely nice.  People we encounter are always friendly, helpful, kind, and smiling!  Watching the townspeople greet one another with a wave and a smile and always time for a short conversation, just warms my heart - something that has been sorely needed during this time of so much anger and hatred in our country.  There are many Native Americans, Mexican Americans, immigrants (probably some of the illegals), along with white people (although it seems that whites are the minority in the resident population). 

June 9, 2021 - Enjoying the View

After a good night's sleep, we went into town in search of some breakfast.  We tried the Boxcar Cafe and found it closed.  But just a few blocks down the road we found Rio Chama Espresso Bar, a new place in town.  I don't remember what was there before, but this was a wonderful addition.  There was a great outdoor space with tables and chairs and a huge caldron-like fire pit.  Jeff ordered a cinnamon roll, which looked more like a cupcake - cinnamon goodness topped with frosting.  I ordered the house coffee, which was a medium roast and very good, and the New Mexico Sunrise, scrambled egg, a bit of cheese, and Hatch green chilis on top of a warm ciabatta roll. 

 

We sat in the sunshine to eat and while away some time before going to fetch our tickets.  Jeff shot some photos (of course), while I finished my coffee in the ticket office where they have wonderful rocking chairs.  

Before we knew it, it was time to board the train.

We were seated in the "deluxe car," which was very similar to the parlor car that we have ridden in before.  There was a continental "breakfast" consisting of a fruit cup and a blueberry muffin (Jeff enjoyed his and mine), and there was also a gift of 50th anniversary coffee mugs.  Last year was the official 50th anniversary year of the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railway, but COVID had other ideas.  Anyway, the mug is a nice remembrance (and something different to add to our collection of "swag."  Like the parlor car, our car had its own hostess, who served us complimentary beverages (coffee, tea, soda, water) throughout the trip and pointed out the sights.  She answered questions - when she knew the answers - and asked others when she didn't know.  This was only her third day on the job!  She is a middle school teacher, and this is her summer job.  

We were seated with a couple from Dallas, Texas, who were big into camping and hunting.  They never even told us their names.  We weren't sure why they even bothered to ride the train because most of the time they complained about the cost, and they both looked thoroughly bored on the way back.  But no matter, we were having fun.

Each time we come, we try to come at a different season.  Although we did this trip in June two years ago, this year's winter was slow to leave, so it was more like spring than summer.  I love seeing the flowers at the different seasons.  As we looked across the verdant green of the valley, we saw huge patches of Rocky Mountain Iris -- so very beautiful, ranging in color from pale blue-purple, to the deep purple that I love so much.  We saw lupine, and tiny prairie sunflowers, and low-growing sacred datura.  Everywhere we looked, we saw such beauty. 

Lupine

                                            Sacred Datura                                    Prairie Sunflower

The aspen were a bright chartreuse - so bright it almost hurt my eyes to look at them.  I love their majestic white trunks that stand in sharp contrast to the shades of green behind them.  Just breath-taking!

And yes, the train was amazing as well.  As usual, we stopped in Osier, Colorado for lunch.

Lunch is  - always the same:  turkey dinner with all the trimmings or meatloaf.  I've have them both and enjoy either one, but this time I just had soup and a salad ... with a bite of Jeff's stuffing.  Delicious!

And then it was back to Chama with the vista on the valley side of the train to enjoy.  Our table mates put their heads on the table and went to sleep for much of the ride back.  Jeff enjoyed the views from the gondola observation car, checking in with me from time to time.

We arrived back at the station and headed for the grocery store to shop for the week.  Tonight's menu was teriyaki grilled chicken, rice, and a caesar salad.  We sat outside and enjoyed some cheese, crackers, and drinks while the chicken was cooking.  Both of us were struck by the quiet of it all.  Ah, Chama, we love it so much.  

After dinner, Jeff made his way down to the yard to take some night pictures.  When we get home and I can access his photos, I'll add some to this section.  But for now, here is an image of the engine we rode behind today which I found on the Internet.

The night watchman turned on some lights for him, and he captured some great images -- can't wait to see them on the large monitor screen at home.

June 8, 2021 ~ A Very Long Day of Travel

This morning at the crack of dawn our wonderful daughter, Aimee, dropped us off at Boston's Logan Airport Terminal B just before 6:00 am for a 7:10 am flight to Santa Fe, New Mexico (with a stopover in Phoenix).  Armed with masks and a lot of effort on my part (think daily monitoring of our seats), we did not have a "center seat-mate" on the long flight (5 hours plus) from Boston to Phoenix.  The flight was long, but not horrible.  We made our way to our connecting gate and set out to find a bite to eat for lunch.  

Although local time was about 10:30 am, it was well after noon on the East Coast, so, we indulged in some adult beverages and shared a turkey club sandwich that was surprisingly good.  The layover was about four hours, so we took turns walking the terminal, and reading as we waited.  Finally we were able to board our flight to Santa Fe - a trip of about an hour and a half.  The Enterprise van picked up a group of us and before long we were in a Dodge Durango - definitely NOT the car I was hoping for, but in this market where rentals are hard to come by, you take what you get.

It's about a two-hour drive to Chama, but we stopped in Espanola for dinner at La Cocina (the kitchen) -- a charming and authentic Mexican restaurant.  

It was Tuesday night, and the place was mobbed -- a good sign.  As we sat on the patio waiting the 25 minutes before we could get a table, we were glad to have stopped there.  I had a wonderful meal of chicken fajitas ... very authentic.  Jeff ... wait for it ... had American Pot Roast.

We finally arrived at our Little Rock House at a little before 9:30 pm (NM time -- 11:30 pm Eastern).  Exhausted, we unloaded our car, opened the suitcases for toiletries and night clothes, and fell into bed.  We luxuriated in the sounds of silence and fell into deep sleep shortly thereafter.   

We will spend the next nine days here, riding and "chasing" and photographing the Cumbres and Toltec narrow gauge steam train.  To be sure we'll do a few other things - a trip to Abiquiu, to visit Georgia O'Keefe's Ghost Ranch (not to mention Bode's General Store for a lunch of the best chili cheeseburgers in the world), perhaps a trip to Taos or maybe even an overnight in Durango, Colorado.

From Chama we'll drive to Grand Junction, Colorado to spend the night before boarding the eastbound California Zephyr from which (hopefully) we'll be able to see the train go through the Rocky Mountains during daylight as we make our way to Chicago, where we'll spend two nights in a hotel just blocks from Andy's Jazz Club. 

Then, we board the Lakeshore Limited for our return to Boston's Back Bay Station.

Whew!  It's a lot to pack into a bit more than two weeks, but we have been longing for this day.  And here we are, back in Chama!

June 7, 2021 ~ Dinner at Aimee and Ann's Backyard Paradise

I have forgotten how much work it is to get ready to head out on a two-week multi-stop trip.  So many details to double check, and so many decisions to make.  What suitcases should we take?  Did we pack all the liquids and sharp objects in the one bag that we will check on the first leg of our trip (a pair of flights from Boston Logan to Phoenix and then connecting to Santa Fe)?  Did I print out all of the confirmations (even though I have never - not once - needed those confirmations)?  Did I pack enough socks and underwear?  Do I have the right layers (it can get cold in the high country of New Mexico)?  

But ... here we are relaxing at daughter Aimee's house.  The suitcases are packed and we're excited to be back on the road again.  Our flight to Santa Fe leaves bright and early (7:10) tomorrow morning, and with a layover in Phoenix we won't get to Santa Fe until about 4:30 pm.  Then it's on to the car rental place and off to Chama (about a two hour drive), so it'll be after 7:00 pm Chama time when we get to our Little Rock House on Maple.  More about that tomorrow.