Birthday in Bermuda ~ December 27, 2018 - January 3, 2019
Birthday in Bermuda ~ December 27, 2018 - January 3, 2019
December 27, 2018
We were up bright and early to catch our 7:00 a.m. Uber ride to Boston's Logan Airport for our 10:15 a.m. flight to beautiful Bermuda. It has been several years since we made our last trip to the Island, and both of us have looked forward to celebrating Jeff's 70th birthday in a place that we have long loved.
Unbeknownst to JJ, Aimee, Bethany, and Jeremy would follow a bit later to surprise him at the airport. Ann was to have joined us as well, but her beloved dog, Chester, had an attack of "doggie vertigo," and she did not feel comfortable leaving him with a dog sitter.
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| JJ just before the big surprise |
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| Success! "You got me," JJ reported. |
Lunch was quite good -- I had the fish chowder; Aimee enjoyed a mushroom ravioli dish with brown butter sauce; Jeremy chose the wahoo fish tacos, while Bethany surprised me by ordering jerk wahoo; JJ played it safe with a club sandwich. Barbara, the owner's mother arrived just as our food was being served, and after we ate she drove Jeff and I around town while the kids walked back to the house. All of this was to kill some time while the cleaning crew (who initially did not show up) finished up with the house. At last the Bermudian folks left and we were able to settle in a bit. We all decided that a nap might be in order. I woke earlier than the rest of the gang and was able to catch some stunning sunset pictures.
By the time we all woke up it was rather late, so we decided to have dinner in town and do a grocery shop in the morning. Off we went back down the hill - this time to the White Horse where we had pizzas (the girls and JJ) and "Island burgers" (Jeremy and I) - all of which were enjoyed immensely. Then back up the hill for some reading before heading to bed.
December 28, 2018
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| Morning coffee on the patio |
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| Making a plan for the day |
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| Bethany |
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| Enjoying the good life! |
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| The view from our balcony |
It was a long ride into Hamilton, and then a transfer to the #7 bus out to Gibb's Hill Light. Hungry, we decided that lunch was in order. Salads, sandwiches, fish tacos, and my beloved fish chowder - along with fruit smoothies, diet Cokes, rum drinks (for JJ), and a glass of white wine rounded our the meal. After lunch, I decided to enjoy a second beverage and a book while the others went to climb the lighthouse.
From there we walked about half a mile or so to Horseshoe Bay Beach for a walk along the beach and up on the rocks overlooking the sea. It was a beautiful afternoon to be sure with lots of smiles and sunshine!
As the sun began to set, we walked back up the hill to the bus that took us into Hamilton. Darkness fell, lending a festive feeling to the wait at the bus station.
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| Tree outside the Town Hall in Hamilton |
We boarded a very full bus and watched as a bit of drama unfolded: a couple of gentlemen exchanged heated words. Our driver immediately called security and one of the men decided to voluntarily get off the bus, settling things down for the long ride from Hamilton back to St. George's. I sat next to a young woman who was an American Airlines stewardess on a 30 hour layover. She was quite chatty and very pleasant, so the time passed rather quickly. At last we were back in town and ready for the long climb back to the house. While it's lovely to be high on the hill and look out over the harbor, you can forget that it's quite the hike to get "home" at the end of a long day!
Bethany and Jeremy took charge of dinner-making, preparing some lovely roasted tomato, spinach/garlic/feta, and mozzarella pizzas -- absolutely delicious -- along with a salad. Exhausted, we all fell into bed at about 10 p.m.
A lovely day in paradise!
December 29, 2018
We had a quiet morning - coffee and conversation, "crushing" our various books (as Jeremy would say), talking to Ann on the phone, and just generally enjoying the day as the sun played peek-a-boo.
I tried to capture a bit more of what the house and property look like. The house was built by the current owner's parents - probably 50 or so years ago. Facing the harbor are a large dining room/foyer and an even larger living room with a balcony overlooking the pool.
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| Sofa in the dining room |
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| Dining room with seating for eight people |
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| Entry way with reading nook and kitchen to the right |
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| Living room with master bedroom through the doors/curtains on the right |
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| Balcony off the living room overlooking the pool and harbor |
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| Pergola with grill and large table for outdoor entertaining |
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| Private pool |
The kitchen is behind the dining room and is good sized with stainless steel appliances, a six burner gas grill, dish-washer, and microwave. It is a well-equipped kitchen with plenty of pots, pans, dishes, glassware, etc.
There is a powder room off the entry-way, three bedrooms, and a full bath. The grounds outside are just lovely -- herbs growing just outside the kitchen, and a small table and chairs in a little "grotto".
The photos don't do the house justice, but they do give one an idea of where we are staying!
After eating lunch here at the house, we decided to walk into St. George's for a look in at a museum with lots of American Civil War information. Bermuda played both sides in our great rebellion, profiting from North and South alike. Alas, the museum was not open -- probably due to the holiday weekend. We were bummed out, but undeterred, and set off to see the "unfinished church."
The lovely Gothic ruin is a St. George's landmark, and a trip to the town is not complete without a brief stop. In 1874 after St. Peter's Church was so badly damaged by a storm that it was thought to be beyond repair, construction on a replacement church began. William Hay, a specialist in Gothic design, was the architect.
There were a variety of reasons that the church remained unfinished. Parishioners held widely divergent opinions; one faction wanted to invest the money in repairing the old church, and a second faction separated from the church and built a different church close by which was known as the Reformed Episcopal Church and is now under the Salvation Army. There were also serious funding problems. In 1883 Trinity Church in Hamilton was severely damaged by fire, and funds that were to have been used to build the St. George's church were diverted to repair Trinity Church. In 1897 the roof of the Unfinished Church was installed, but nothing more was done, and the church remained exposed to the harsh weather.
In 1926 a strong hurricane destroyed a lot of the work that had been done. Owned by the Anglican Church of Bermuda and managed by the Bermuda National Trust, the ruins are a protected historic monument and part of the St. George's World Heritage Site.
There were a variety of reasons that the church remained unfinished. Parishioners held widely divergent opinions; one faction wanted to invest the money in repairing the old church, and a second faction separated from the church and built a different church close by which was known as the Reformed Episcopal Church and is now under the Salvation Army. There were also serious funding problems. In 1883 Trinity Church in Hamilton was severely damaged by fire, and funds that were to have been used to build the St. George's church were diverted to repair Trinity Church. In 1897 the roof of the Unfinished Church was installed, but nothing more was done, and the church remained exposed to the harsh weather.
In 1926 a strong hurricane destroyed a lot of the work that had been done. Owned by the Anglican Church of Bermuda and managed by the Bermuda National Trust, the ruins are a protected historic monument and part of the St. George's World Heritage Site.
I don't think we have ever come to St. George's without taking a walk up York Street to see the "unfinished church!" In earlier years, you have been able to go inside, but instability of the walls has led to them installing gates and padlocks. I always love to go on sunny days when you can enjoy the pattern of light and shadows.
The "kids" set off for a visit to Tobacco Bay and Fort Alexandria, while JJ and I walked back to the town square to see the Deliverance. The story of Deliverance is an interesting one. In 1609, the Virginia Company sent a fleet of fourteen ships from Plymouth, England with supplies and new colonists for the American Jamestown colony. The fleet included a 300 ton galleon, known as Sea Venture, captained by Christopher Newport. Sir George Somers, an experienced mariner, was also the Admiral of the Fleet. Also, on board was the entire “high command” including the colony’s new Lt. Governor designate, Sir Thomas Gates.
The fleet took a more direct, northerly route, hoping to shorten the sailing time and avoid potential conflict with the Spanish. The vessels managed to stay together until July 24th when they encountered a tremendous hurricane which dispersed the fleet. The Sea Venture and its crew and passengers battled the storm for four days until they landed on Bermuda’s eastern reefs. Meanwhile, the other storm-battered ships with their sick and exhausted passengers straggled into Jamestown sometime that August and those in Virginia presumed that Sea Venture, along with the colony’s new leadership and vital food supply, had been lost in the storm. However, all 150 passengers and crew were saved, and remained in Bermuda for nine months while completing construction on two small rescue ships - Patience and Deliverance. They set sail for Virginia on May 10, 1610. The larger of the two, Deliverance, was built of wood salvaged from Sea Venture as well as from Bermuda cedar. Patience was constructed entirely of Bermuda cedar with only one iron bolt from the Sea Venture.
The Deliverance was built of both wood salvaged from Sea Venture (ribs, beams, and prow) and Bermuda cedar (planking and decking). Patience was entirely built of Bermuda cedar with only one iron bolt from the Sea Venture. Known as "the ship that saved America," Deliverance arrived in Jamestown in time to save the colony from starvation.
After our walkabout town, JJ and I enjoyed beverages at the White Horse on the patio, before picking up a few groceries and making the trek back to the house.
You can see the long, steep hill from the road, and then the final climb up this flight and one more slightly shorter flight of steps to get to the driveway that leads to the house.
After a dinner of pasta and chicken, there was a rousing game of hearts (Jeremy kicking some serious butt), before it was time for a well-earned rest.
December 30, 2018
It is now just after noon, and all is quiet in the house. Jeff and Aimee decided to walk into town and go to church. Beth and Jeremy are reading (and/or sleeping), and I am catching up with this blog. It has been an overcast morning, and just now I am hearing the tell-tale sounds of a gentle rain falling. We may go out to the Crystal Caves with lunch at the Swizzle Inn ... or ... we may just chillax.
Crystal Caves it was, although Jeremy bailed in favor of catching up on some sleep/rest and doing some reading. We grabbed an umbrella and donned our rain gear for the trek down the hill to the bus stop. It wasn't long before the bus arrived and off we went for the short ride to the Swizzle Inn. It was crowded - even at 2 p.m. - but we found a table inside and ordered lunch.
After lunch - which was delicious - we walked across the street and down the path to the caves. As the story goes, the cave was discovered in 1905 by two 12-year-old boys who were searching for their lost cricket ball. Soon after, the Wilkinson family, who owned the property, learned of the discovery and Mr Wilkinson lowered his 14-year-old son, Bernard, into the cave with a bicycle lamp on 140 feet of strong rope tied to a tree. It was opened as a tourist attraction in 1907. The cave is about 500 meters long and 62 meters deep. The crystal clear water of Cahow Lake is 70 meters deep, and many of the cave's formations have become submerged over the years.
The sky was clearing by the time we got back up from the caves as we caught the bus for an uneventful ride back to our bus stop and the trek up the hill and back to the house. Aimee cooked us a delicious meal of vegetarian chili with toppings of avocado, pickled red onion, cilantro, sour cream, and cheddar cheese served over rice along with some steamed broccoli. We played a rousing game of hearts (which I won by "shooting the moon" to overtake Jeremy on the last hand), and are now watching a hockey game.
Even with the rain .... another wonderful day!
December 31, 2018
What a beautiful day it was today! Warm and sunny with a slight breeze ... just a great day to be out and about.
One of the best things about this trip has been how "laid back" we all have been. We wake when we want, and we spend time deciding what we might choose to do. Today's choices ranged from going all the way to the other end of the island and seeing the Maritime Museum at the Dockyards to walks around Spittal Pond and other local haunts.
Ultimately, after much deliberation (and time spent lounging around the pool), Jeremy suggested snorkeling over at Tobacco Bay with a possible bicycle ride. As it turned out they could not get three bicycles, so they arrived at Tobacco Bay well before JJ and I did (due to the fact that JJ wanted to take a "short cut" .... which was "not-so-much" of a short cut - a .8 km walk turned out to be well over 2.4 km).
Tobacco Bay is a lovely, tiny beach, which clearly in season is a "jumpin' place" with a pavilion and such. But off season, it was quiet -- maybe four or six people besides us on the beach. The water was clear (of course), and Jeremy especially had a great time. It took Beth a while to get all the way into the water, but eventually she made it happen. Aimee chose not to snorkel -- claiming lack of "eye power" -- her exact words were, "I should have put my contacts in."
At one point, Aimee excused herself to go to the "rest room" and arranged for a piece of decadent chocolate cake with a candle for her Dad's birthday! A perfectly lovely end to our morning/afternoon.
Back at "home" (the Quarterdeck). we settled in for some reading, chillin' by the pool, and fending off the persistent meows and nipping at the heels of "Esmeralda" (AKA tripod), a three-legged fluffy cat that seems to have adopted us. As I sat chatting with Aimee down by the pool, I noticed a tremendous front off to our left and yet all was blue and lovely to our right! Amazing Bermuda weather!
And then ... just before the heavens opened, the rainbows ... first the vivid rainbow and then the brief double rainbow!
Then the arcing rainbow -- - truly beautiful ... and then the heavens opened and the rains came! Jeremy had just left for a "run" and returned thoroughly soaked, but happy none-the-less.
Popcorn was enjoyed ... social media and/or cell phone games were played ... dinner was prepared and served, and Jeff and Aimee went down to the Town Square for the celebration (which reportedly wasn't much). Now we are watching hockey with Bethany and Jeremy.
Happy Birthday JJ! And ... Happy New Year!
January 1, 2019
Happy New Year! All good things must come to an end -- at least for those who are not retired. Aimee, Bethany, and Jeremy are preparing themselves for the trip back to Boston and thence to work tomorrow. Jeff and I will have a couple of days by ourselves. Taxi has been called and will arrive at noon. Jeff and I may take the bus and ferry out to the Dockyards once they are gone - just to have something to do. Or ... we may just decide to hang out at the house until it is time for dinner (which I think we will eat out as I suspect the grocery store is closed today and we are out of food.
Bags were packed and staged as we waited for the taxi, and all too soon, the three of them headed up the driveway and into the cab. Hugs and many words of thanks were exchanged all around.
And off they went! It's mighty quiet around here now -- that's for sure!
The rest of the afternoon passed quietly as we walked around the grounds, read, and just basically relaxed. We did take the time to watch for the Delta flight to Boston with our kiddos on board. I watched from the balcony dining table, and Jeff walked up the hill a bit.
Later in the day we walked into town to get a late lunch/early dinner at Wahoo's, and passed a shop selling these blown glass cats. In honor of Aimee's adopted "Esmeralda" we took this photo. And, by the way, we haven't seen Esmeralda since Aimee left! Coincidence? I think not!
So ends the first day of 2019! I can't think of a better place to start the year than at the Quarterdeck, St. George's, Bermuda!
January 2, 2019
It is a very grey morning here in beautiful Bermuda, and the forecast is for thunderstorms in the morning with clearing in the afternoon. The plan is to bus into Hamilton and take the ferry out to Dockyards for a walkabout, maybe lunch, and then bus to The Reefs for a visit -- at least have a drink there before heading back to the house. Right now, however it seems to be a good day for settling in with a good book.
The heavens opened and it rained hard until about 9:30 when the sun started to break through the heavy cloud cover. We donned our rain gear and headed down the hill to the bus stop for the ride into Hamilton. We were there in plenty of time, so we poked our heads into a few shops -- Jeff enjoyed a fruit smoothie in a really neat bookstore -- and then we boarded the noon ferry to go across the sound to Dockyards.
I loved the reflection of the pastel buildings on Front Street in the water as we pulled away from the Ferry Terminal!
The Clocktower Shops never disappoint, and this year was particularly festive in their Christmas finery!
We went in search of a restaurant that Jeff remembered as "The Onion." Turned out to be the Frog and Onion, located in the old Cooperage - just across the way from the Craft Center. We have definitely eaten there before, and it did not disappoint this time either. I had brisket sliders which were delicious, and Jeff had the "Cottage Pie" (AKA shepherd's pie), which he also enjoyed.
We did a bit of poking about and then caught the number 7 bus down to The Reefs where we enjoyed some drinks in an absolutely deserted lounge area -- just me, JJ, two wait staff, and the bar tender! Jeff walked down to Casco's Point and out to the beach, while I enjoyed the peace and quiet of the patio dining area where my only company were a bunch of English sparrows and the sound of the sea.
We caught the number 7 into Hamilton, and transferred to the number 11 to St. George's, and made the long climb back to the Quarterdeck. A full day of doing nothing more than enjoying the sights and sounds of Bermuda!
Tomorrow .... back to reality! Our taxi picks us up at noon, and our flight is at 2:28. With luck we will be at Aimee's by 6 p.m. where we will spend the night. UCONN women play Baylor at 9 p.m. -- hopefully we'll be able to stay up to watch it!
One of the best things about this trip has been how "laid back" we all have been. We wake when we want, and we spend time deciding what we might choose to do. Today's choices ranged from going all the way to the other end of the island and seeing the Maritime Museum at the Dockyards to walks around Spittal Pond and other local haunts.
Ultimately, after much deliberation (and time spent lounging around the pool), Jeremy suggested snorkeling over at Tobacco Bay with a possible bicycle ride. As it turned out they could not get three bicycles, so they arrived at Tobacco Bay well before JJ and I did (due to the fact that JJ wanted to take a "short cut" .... which was "not-so-much" of a short cut - a .8 km walk turned out to be well over 2.4 km).
Tobacco Bay is a lovely, tiny beach, which clearly in season is a "jumpin' place" with a pavilion and such. But off season, it was quiet -- maybe four or six people besides us on the beach. The water was clear (of course), and Jeremy especially had a great time. It took Beth a while to get all the way into the water, but eventually she made it happen. Aimee chose not to snorkel -- claiming lack of "eye power" -- her exact words were, "I should have put my contacts in."
We ended our morning by going over to the "Beautiful Dead End" to see pretty fishes before heading to a lovely lunch in town. Jeff and I hiked over to town while the kids went back to the house for a change of clothes/shower before going off to The Wharf for a special 70th birthday lunch for Jeff.
Back at "home" (the Quarterdeck). we settled in for some reading, chillin' by the pool, and fending off the persistent meows and nipping at the heels of "Esmeralda" (AKA tripod), a three-legged fluffy cat that seems to have adopted us. As I sat chatting with Aimee down by the pool, I noticed a tremendous front off to our left and yet all was blue and lovely to our right! Amazing Bermuda weather!
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| The front to the left! |
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| The sunshine to our right! |
And then ... just before the heavens opened, the rainbows ... first the vivid rainbow and then the brief double rainbow!
Then the arcing rainbow -- - truly beautiful ... and then the heavens opened and the rains came! Jeremy had just left for a "run" and returned thoroughly soaked, but happy none-the-less.
Popcorn was enjoyed ... social media and/or cell phone games were played ... dinner was prepared and served, and Jeff and Aimee went down to the Town Square for the celebration (which reportedly wasn't much). Now we are watching hockey with Bethany and Jeremy.
Happy Birthday JJ! And ... Happy New Year!
January 1, 2019
Happy New Year! All good things must come to an end -- at least for those who are not retired. Aimee, Bethany, and Jeremy are preparing themselves for the trip back to Boston and thence to work tomorrow. Jeff and I will have a couple of days by ourselves. Taxi has been called and will arrive at noon. Jeff and I may take the bus and ferry out to the Dockyards once they are gone - just to have something to do. Or ... we may just decide to hang out at the house until it is time for dinner (which I think we will eat out as I suspect the grocery store is closed today and we are out of food.
Jeremy made himself some breakfast (pie and yogurt) and took it down to the Adirondack chairs overlooking the harbor for one last soaking up both sun and view. He had already been up early and walked into town where he bought a can of cat food for "Esmeralda," a three legged cat that seemed to adopt us.
Bags were packed and staged as we waited for the taxi, and all too soon, the three of them headed up the driveway and into the cab. Hugs and many words of thanks were exchanged all around.
And off they went! It's mighty quiet around here now -- that's for sure!
So ends the first day of 2019! I can't think of a better place to start the year than at the Quarterdeck, St. George's, Bermuda!
January 2, 2019
It is a very grey morning here in beautiful Bermuda, and the forecast is for thunderstorms in the morning with clearing in the afternoon. The plan is to bus into Hamilton and take the ferry out to Dockyards for a walkabout, maybe lunch, and then bus to The Reefs for a visit -- at least have a drink there before heading back to the house. Right now, however it seems to be a good day for settling in with a good book.
The heavens opened and it rained hard until about 9:30 when the sun started to break through the heavy cloud cover. We donned our rain gear and headed down the hill to the bus stop for the ride into Hamilton. We were there in plenty of time, so we poked our heads into a few shops -- Jeff enjoyed a fruit smoothie in a really neat bookstore -- and then we boarded the noon ferry to go across the sound to Dockyards.
I loved the reflection of the pastel buildings on Front Street in the water as we pulled away from the Ferry Terminal!
The Clocktower Shops never disappoint, and this year was particularly festive in their Christmas finery!
We went in search of a restaurant that Jeff remembered as "The Onion." Turned out to be the Frog and Onion, located in the old Cooperage - just across the way from the Craft Center. We have definitely eaten there before, and it did not disappoint this time either. I had brisket sliders which were delicious, and Jeff had the "Cottage Pie" (AKA shepherd's pie), which he also enjoyed.
I could not resist this shot from inside the bus stop across from the Reefs. I may try to brighten it up a bit and then repost it.
We caught the number 7 into Hamilton, and transferred to the number 11 to St. George's, and made the long climb back to the Quarterdeck. A full day of doing nothing more than enjoying the sights and sounds of Bermuda!
Tomorrow .... back to reality! Our taxi picks us up at noon, and our flight is at 2:28. With luck we will be at Aimee's by 6 p.m. where we will spend the night. UCONN women play Baylor at 9 p.m. -- hopefully we'll be able to stay up to watch it!
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