Hiking the Caldeira ~ February 3, 2018

Hiking the Caldeira ~ Saturday, February 3, 2017

Donning hiking boots and armed with a backpack with water and a light snack, we set off from our hotel and head to the iconic Caldeira, about a twenty minute drive from the hotel (although our guide, Rueben, told us that he can make the trip in just twelve minutes).  As we approached the caldeira, we noticed the fog settling in; at the top, we could barely see the greenery at the bottom.

 If you look closely through the fog, you can see touches of green.  This was the best it got.


This photo (credit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faial_Island) shows what we might have seen if the volcano had not been shrouded in the clouds.  

The hike was more strenuous than either Jeff or I expected.  It was a far cry from the "easy" hike advertised!  There was a tiny trail - perhaps a foot across, and the footing was often difficult.  I found myself wishing I had brought a walking stick of some sort to help me maintain my balance.  For part of the hike there was barbed wire next to the walking trail, and I worried that I would reach out to steady myself and cut myself on the barbs.  At a bit more than a quarter of the way into the hike Rueben, our guide, noticed how wet my fleece was becoming and strongly recommended that we turn around and go back to the car - for fear of eventually getting hypothermia.  Shortly thereafter he lent me his walking poles, which was a big help in getting me quickly to the car. The funny thing is that I had packed rain gear in the backpack, and Jeff took it out.  It was, however, just as well -- it was rough terrain for my first hike in fifteen or more years!
At one point, we looked back at the city of Horta with Mount Pico poking through the clouds.  I couldn't resist this photo attempt!

Rueben dropped us at the hotel, tired, cold, and wet!  We hung our things on the chairs and table of our sunny balcony and both took a hot shower, after which we settled into our beds for a nap.  Later we walked down to the marina area to Clube Naval, a bar overlooking the marina.  Along the way we passed a Posada (fort) that had been made into a hotel (similar to the one we stayed at in Angra do Heroismo on Terceira Island when we came in November of 2016).

The Posada from the front
The Posada from the side

The Posada from the waterfront (the back)

I think the Azoreans are so clever to turn these old forts into hotels!  I remember the one in Angra -- so beautiful, and an incredible mix of the old and more modern design.  This one was closed for maintenance and repair, or we would have gone inside.

A view of the harbor on a mostly sunny day

Our lunch at Bar du Clube Naval


I did not take pictures of the soccer club that was playing pool adjacent to our table, but the place had a magnificent view out the window of neighboring Pico Island.  The soup of the day was a pureed vegetable soup -- not as hot as we would have liked, and not a particularly appetizing color, but it was warm and tasty, and my glass of white wine was, as usual, delicious and refreshing.  Jeff got his favorite Portuguese beer, Super Boc.

After a leisurely lunch, Jeff paid the bill (six Euros fifty cents -- less than $10 US for 2 big bowls of soup, a healthy pour of white wine, and a large beer) and we took a stroll along the marina.



It is a tradition of sailors to leave a mark when they put into port - for good luck.  We've seen similar paintings in Bermuda and also last year at Terceira.  In the photo above, you can see the walls of the marina covered with these paintings, and the photos below show examples of them close up.



A view of Hotel Horta - up on the hill - from the marina




Back at the hotel, we played a few games of backgammon on the veranda before the cool wind and setting sun drove us back into the hotel proper where I caught a bit of a sunset behind the clouds surrounding Ponte Pico.


A beautiful afternoon after an exhilarating (but very wet) morning!  We do love it here on Faial, and are already planning a return visit in June 2019 in order to see the hydrangea in full bloom.

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